At First Stop Cosplay, we are dedicated to teaching those new to sewing as much as possible about sewing tools and their uses.

Let’s review important sewing tools and equipment for finishing raw edges on fabric. Follow along as we explain pinking shears, sergers, Fray Check, and more sewing tips to make your projects look cutting-edge!

Pinking Shears

Have you ever seen a zigzag cut pattern on a raw edge and wondered what that was? Well, that comes from something called pinking shears.

Pinking shears are a type of fabric shears specifically used to reduce fraying and are an excellent alternative if you don’t have a serger/overlock machine and need something faster than an overedge stitch. They don’t completely stop fraying, but they sure do help.

Stitched-and-Pinked

Finishing your raw edges is an extra step, but it’s essential for creating a durable project! Here’s another seam finish to add to your repertoire:

Stitched-and-Pinked is a step up from only using pink shears. Sewing a line of stitches about ¼″-½″ from the raw edges and then cutting with pinking shears is a double safeguard against a fraying edge. A pinked edge can only reduce fraying, and a line of stitches creates a hard stop for any fraying; mixing both techniques achieves a solid and painless seam finish.

Fray Check

Want to avoid having your cosplay or garment start falling apart at the seams? Fray Check for fabric is a quick and effective fix to keeping your outfit from fraying into nothingness!

Fray Check is a strong, fabric-safe adhesive — a tiny bit goes a long way!

Similar fabric adhesives include Fray Block, Fray Glue, and Fray Lock. Use these to seal your edges and prevent fraying.

Facings

Ever noticed extra fabric flapping around on the inside of a garment and wondered what it is? That’s called a facing; it plays a crucial role in your sewing projects! Facings are added to the inside of garments as a way to finish raw edges.

Image: Fabric facing inside the collar of our FSCO Sailor Blouse Sewing Pattern.

What is facing in sewing? You’ll typically see a fabric facing on openings with curved or awkwardly shaped edges, such as necklines (with or without collars), armholes (on sleeveless garments), waistlines, etc. Facings are sewn onto the right side of a garment and then turned inside out so that they’re hidden. Instead, all you see is a clean, finished edge on the outside. No stray threads unraveling here!

Sergers

Do you know what a serger (a.k.a. overlock machine) is? It looks like four sewing machines in one, but it’s used for enclosing raw edges in thread to prevent fraying. Depending on the type of stitch you want, you can use either one needle or two, and three or four cones of thread.

Although sergers are handy if you sew a lot, they are very specialized, so think carefully before investing in your own. Entry-level sergers typically start at $200-$250 (though you might luck out and find a refurbished one for less). We recommend the brands SINGER and Brother.

Overedge Stitch vs. Zigzag Stitch

What is an overedge stitch?

The overedge stitch is a type of stretch stitch. Stretch stitches are used to reinforce seams that will be stretched often. An overedge stitch essentially backstitches over itself continuously, resulting in a more durable and flexible seam. It also works great for finishing a raw edge! While the overedge stitch takes longer to sew than a serger, it mimics the overlock stitch by enclosing the raw edge to an extent.

Pan Tip! Careful not to make a mistake when using an overedge stitch — these stitches are almost impossible to seam rip!

What is a zigzag stitch?

While the overedge stitch is a great alternative if you don’t have a serger, not all sewing machines are equipped with an overedge stitch option. If that’s the case, the zigzag stitch is another simple and effective way to finish a raw edge. Using a zigzag stitch creates a protective barrier to prevent your fabric from fraying past the stitches or up to the seamline. It may not look as neat over time, since the fabric will fray to a certain point.

Bias Binding

What is bias in sewing? Bias binding is another fun and versatile technique for finishing a raw edge. It is not something sewists use to quiet biased opinions. Although…!

Jokes aside, the bias on any woven fabric is cut at a 45-degree angle to the grainline, giving the fabric you’re using a little bit more stretch even if it’s not stretchy. This makes it easier to maneuver than straight binding (binding that’s cut along the grainline).

Bias binding is often used on curved edges like armholes, although you can use it on pretty much any raw edge. You can make the binding decorative by having it show, or you can use it the same way that you would a facing by turning it under so that it’s hidden from view.

Seal a Fraying Elastic Edge

We don’t always condone playing with fire, but this is one risk we think is worth the reward! Use a lighter to seal elastic, synthetic ribbon, or Rigilene (polyester boning) edges. Be careful and always prioritize safety when working with fire.

Here’s how to seal an elastic edge:

First, use fabric shears or thread clippers to trim any unwanted frayed fibers from the end. Hold the elastic so your fingers are at a safe distance from the flame, then pass the edge of the elastic through the top of the flame 1-2 times, just enough to melt it slightly. Use caution. Do this in a safe area that won’t catch fire (like a granite countertop or a sink), and stay aware of your surroundings.

Frayed ends can be annoying, but they aren’t worth getting burned. When it’s time to set fire to the frayin’, be careful. Remember, you can always buy more elastic, but your digits deserve to stay intact!

On The Edge of Glori-ous Garments

Mastering edge finishes like pinking shears, stitched-and-pinked edges, Fray Check, facings, sergers, and overedge stitches can significantly enhance the durability and appearance of your sewing projects. Each of these sewing techniques offers unique benefits, from reducing fraying to providing a clean, professional look. Experiment with these methods to find the best fit for your fabrics and project needs.

Beyond this guide, we also offer a wealth of free educational content in our FSCO Sewing Academy, covering every detail of cosplay crafting. We’re committed to continuously expanding our resources and supporting our community along their cosplay journey, so let us know if there’s a specific topic you’re curious about that we have yet to cover!

Ready to flex your new knowledge? Check out our one-of-a-kind, easy-to-use sewing patterns by exploring our shop, or read about what comes with every pattern purchase.

Our Discord community connects you with our team and fellow cosplayers, ready to assist with any questions or challenges you may encounter.

Interested in knowing what else makes First Stop Cosplay unique? Read this.

Follow us on social media for updates, tutorials, and inspiration. Got questions or want to share your sewing machine experiences? Drop us a comment below!

Happy sewing from all of us at First Stop Cosplay!

Written by Karina M.

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