Welcome to our FSCO Sewing Academy! Ready to learn the basics every cosplayer needs? Whether you're just starting or refining your skills, getting familiar with these fundamental techniques will set you up for success.

Laying a Pattern Over Fabric: A Critical Step

Properly laying out your patterns on fabric is crucial for achieving the best results. Poor pattern placement may result in unnecessary fabric waste or distortion when sewn.

Key terms:

• Selvage: The finished edge of your fabric that won’t fray
• Grainline: Runs parallel to the selvage (indicated on most sewing patterns)
• Right Side: The side you want on the outside of your project
• Wrong Side: The side that will be hidden inside your project

Remember these steps every time you lay a pattern piece on fabric:

• Pre-wash and iron your fabric per the manufacturer's instructions before starting (this gets shrinking and excess dye out of the way)
• Smooth out any wrinkles or creases on your fabric and pattern pieces with an iron (different fabrics require different heat settings, refer to manufacturer’s instructions)
• Start with the largest pattern pieces first
• Align the grainline of the pattern piece with the selvage of the fabric
• Use a ruler to ensure each end of the grainline is parallel to the selvage
• Pin the pattern piece to the fabric using as many pins as you need to keep it secure
• Repeat these same steps with the rest of your pattern pieces

Laying an FSCO paper pattern over fabric.

Ensuring your fabric is properly aligned with the grainline will help the material behave as expected throughout the sewing process, so your finished project can look its best!

Horizontal vs. Vertical Pinning

What’s the difference between vertical and horizontal pinning, and when should you use each?

Vertical pinning means placing your pins perpendicular to the seam. It is ideal for most seams, curves, gathering, and pleats. Vertical pining also allows for many pins in a small area.

Horizontal pinning, where pins run parallel to the seam, is great for small thin areas and long, straight edges like narrow hems and zippers. It can also help you cover more area with fewer pins since the length of each pin holds the fabric in place. This technique works well when you’re running low on pins. Horizontal pinning is not ideal for curved seams.

Each method has advantages, so try both and see which works best for your projects!

Did you know? First Stop Cosplay offers premium sewing patterns for cosplayers and beginner sewists, free access to a wide variety of online educational and entertaining content, and the most essential sewing tools that decades of experience have shown are key to unlocking sewing mastery! From glass head pins to pin cushions, thread clippers to seam rippers, our carefully selected assortment of necessary notions is highly recommended.

Seam Allowance: The Key to Accurate Sewing

Seam allowance is the distance between the fabric's edge and the sew line, providing space for the thread to hold the fabric together around the entire perimeter of a pattern piece.

Most seam allowances range from ¼ inch to ⅝ inch. Hem seam allowances are usually larger, commonly ranging from ½ inch to 2 inches. It is important to note that smaller seam allowances reduce bulk while limiting alterations to a finished garment, whereas larger seam allowances allow for adjustments but may add bulk.

In order to achieve the most accurate results, it is essential to closely follow the seam allowance of your pattern. Using the seam allowance guide on your sewing machine or marking the seam line on your fabric will provide additional precision. Some presser feet have measurements marked on them already!

Presser feet with seam allowance measurements.

Note: Most needle plates on sewing machines show seam allowance measurements (called the seam allowance guide) to help you sew with a consistent seam allowance. Check out your sewing machine to find the needle plate’s various measurements. If they’re hard to see, placing a strip of colored tape may help guide you.

What is Backstitching? Securing Your Seams

Did you know there’s a way to secure your seams so they don’t come undone? It’s called backstitching, and it’s essential for reinforcing the beginning and end of a seam.

Most sewing machines have a backstitch function, typically indicated by a U-shaped arrow. To backstitch, you simply sew in reverse for about ½″ (or about 4-6 stitches). If your machine lacks this function, you can also turn the fabric around and sew in the opposite direction.

This technique ensures that your seams stay intact, preventing threads from coming loose and your project from falling apart!

Read more about how to finish sewing and tie your project together with “Finishing Touches”.

How to Sew a Straight Line: The Foundation of Perfect Seams

Sewing a straight line may seem simple, but it’s a crucial skill that requires practice. Straight seams with the correct seam allowance are vital for the fit and finish of your projects.

Here’s how to sew a straight seam:

• Mark your seam allowance using a ruler and a non-permanent marking tool
• Pin your fabric together to keep it from shifting
• Use the marked line to guide you, or use another guide (i.e. magnetic seam guide, a rubber band, tape, the seam allowance guide on your sewing machine, or a sticky note)
• Check your speed control settings, if available on your sewing machine, and start slow
• Focus on the marked line and adjust the fabric as needed to keep it straight
• Pay enough attention to your needle to ensure that it (and your fabric) are intact

Remember, sewing straight is not a race — take your time and get comfortable with your machine. Keep practicing, and soon you’ll master those straight seams!

Want to find a sewing kit with all the tools you’ll need to start (and finish) your next sewing project? Ta-da! Our FSCO Starter Tool Set has you covered. We even put together an FSCO Travel Starter Tool Set for sewists on the go! (My favorite part of both is the canvas pouch.)

Sewing at a Corner: Precision in Every Pivot

After mastering straight seams, the next step is sewing angles. When you need to pivot at a corner, lower the needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot, and turn the fabric before continuing to sew. This method keeps your fabric in place and creates sharp, clean corners.

Here are some steps for ultimate precision in every pivot:

• Mark your seam allowance around the corner where you’ll be sewing (your pivot point)
• Sew down the corner until you hit the pivot point
• Note: You can use the handwheel to inch as close to your pivot point as possible
• With the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and turn the fabric
• Lower the presser foot, continue sewing, and slow down when you reach the end
• If there’s another corner, lower the needle, lift the foot, turn the fabric, and repeat step 4!

Mastering these beginner sewing techniques will build a strong foundation for your sewing projects. Whether you're crafting cosplays or everyday garments, these fundamental sewing skills will help you achieve professional-looking results.

Keen to Keep Learning?

Beyond this guide, we also offer a wealth of free educational content and cover every detail of cosplay crafting in our FSCO Sewing Academy! We’re committed to continuously expanding our resources and supporting our growing community along their cosplay journey, so let us know if there’s a specific topic you’re curious about that we have yet to cover!

Ready to flex your new knowledge? Check out our one-of-a-kind, easy-to-use sewing patterns by exploring our shop, or read about what comes with every pattern purchase.

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Interested in knowing what else makes First Stop Cosplay unique? Read this.

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Let's create something amazing together!

Written by Karina M.

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